We decided not to set sail yesterday evening thanks to a dark night, still slightly tired crew and a large sea running. We turned in for a good night's sleep to be welcomed by a 'beaut' this morning. A fair wind carrying big clouds bringing their own rain and gusts to the party. As the sun found its morning energy we had a huge array of rainbows playing around the rugged outline of Porto Santo, as it eased its way out of our lives and into the gloom. Porto Santo shall ever have a place in my heart for providing a pleasant little sanctuary in our time of need. I shall be back with Tracey for a proper ramble, steak and beer.

As Porto Santo faded into our wake so Madeira materialized into a solid landmark that has suffered the test of time, with its peak rounded off through years of erosion, steep sides and sheer cliffs. It is obviously inhabited by many sea birds given the number that have been gliding about the boat just above the water, stabbing the surface at what we have yet to make out.

No sooner had the boat settled into her sail plan and we slipped, without consciously realising it into ships routine. One on the helm and the rest either reading, sleeping or cooking. We have a long way to go and the thought helps an immediate gear change into a twenty four hour work regime. For myself I have found the break in Porto Santo a real tonic. I left Newlyn feeling completely depleted thanks to months of long hours and a high work load. On setting sail we never really had a chance of a break and I feel like a new man for stepping off the treadmill for a couple of days, layers of stress peeling away like an onion skin.

The sun is about to set off the starboard bow as I bash this out on deck, and the day could not be any more different from this morning. We have shed our foulies and sit becalmed in a loppy sea with an uneasy motion. I think the wind is on the change but it is also partly due to the wind shadow of Madeira.

Role on the big blue yonder and eating up the miles again.

Cheers Pete.

A video from yesterday's encounter with the Gorch Foch.

We have had another night of wild winds blowing though the harbour, driving rain and the added interest of lightning. Popping up to look out the hatch in the early hours I was all the more grateful for being tucked under this great rock of Porto Santo. The forecast for this morning is 35 gusting 40knts with 7 metre seas but easing tonight, so my feeling is to head off this evening with things continuing to ease through the night. The pressure has just bottomed out.

Life has been good here in that we have had a spell of recuperation which has meant good food, sleep and catching up on things, including getting the satcom to send off some pictures which must have taken about six hours. Frustrating, but well worth it and there is no way we would have managed it without Al Keir's help, patience, persistence and professionalism.

Yesterday bought loved ones on board in that we are able to use our mobile phones for a good old chat, and Eliot and I opened one of our surprise presents. Eliot got a Halloween package and I had a box of Ferrero Rocher which we demolished after a lovely oil lit meal, and a bottle of Tasmanian Red. We had planned on a good night's sleep but the wind kept us on our toes as it screeched through, the odd gust shaking the boat in its frustration at missing its chance at sea. I really think the Square Rigger was a heaven sent message.

Spirits are up and we are keen to get back on the road and give Spirit of Mystery her nose, and keep heading south for the doldrums and then the South Atlantic high, Cape Town and a big family hug. We all had a chuckle over a comment from Gina to Mark, that from the blog he always seems to be cooking and yet he never does any at home - he says it's because he can't get to the stove as she loves to cook.......think I'll duck out of that one!

Now that the manic days of Newlyn have past memories keep popping up, and one of them was meeting Andy's friend Phil Cowton who came down with a spare Sextant if we needed one. How nice is that?!

Cheers Pete

You could be mistaken for thinking that 'Spirit of Mystery' and her crew have recently crossed the Equator in supersonic record breaking time! But let me put your minds to rest, this is a picture of my boys, their cousin and her friend getting into the 'spirit' of things and about to leave the house to terrify the neighbours - they can normally do that without the aid of masks and fancy dress he-he!

Hope you had a 'spookable' evening!

Mandy